There aren't many places to mount water bottles on this bike with easy access. The practical solution is a handlebar mount bottle cage.
The mounting bracket was too big for the handlebar. So I wrapped the handlebar with several layers of electrical tape to increase the diameter. Now it's on there securely.
"Tough as a rhinoceros, fleet as a gazelle, durable as a crocodile, easy to maintain and designed specifically to provide effective, affordable transportation to those who need a bike that gets the job done-no matter if it's dirt roads or psycho-habituated roadways. As a sign of our commitment to the goodness that is the bicycle, for every two AfricaBikes sold, one is donated to a good works cause in challenged areas around the world." - KONA
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
Brooks Saddle Mod
I punched some holes along the sides of my saddle and laced it up. I used a pair of "hole punch pliers" (from Home Depot for $10) to make the holes, and some paracord to lace it.
It wasn't easy punching out the holes, but I eventually got it. The holes are 4mm in diameter, spaced about a centimetre apart, and sealed up with Sno Seal.
The saddle is noticeably firmer, but still comfortable. It's definitely worth doing if the sides of the saddle are starting to flair out too much, or if you want to firm it up a little.
TIP: When lacing up the sides, don't pull them together tightly. Try to keep the sides where they are while keeping the paracord snug. Otherwise the saddle will feel like a rock.
2'ND TIP: Punch even number (2, 4, 6, 8, etc) of holes per side. This makes the paracord lacing look neater, and allows you to hide the knot under the saddle.
It wasn't easy punching out the holes, but I eventually got it. The holes are 4mm in diameter, spaced about a centimetre apart, and sealed up with Sno Seal.
The saddle is noticeably firmer, but still comfortable. It's definitely worth doing if the sides of the saddle are starting to flair out too much, or if you want to firm it up a little.
TIP: When lacing up the sides, don't pull them together tightly. Try to keep the sides where they are while keeping the paracord snug. Otherwise the saddle will feel like a rock.
2'ND TIP: Punch even number (2, 4, 6, 8, etc) of holes per side. This makes the paracord lacing look neater, and allows you to hide the knot under the saddle.
Tuesday, April 17, 2012
Problem With Saddle?
My Brooks saddle has developed a weird ridge. It doesn't effect riding, or the comfort. It's just an eyesore...for now.
I didn't buy it new from a store. It supposedly came off a brand new bike according to the previous owner. I believe him, cause it looked new and didn't have any "sit bone" imprint.
If this saddle starts to rip, I'll replace it with a Gyes saddle. I've read some good reviews on them.
NOTE: The outline of the imprint is from the "nose cap" (?) of the saddle chassis. I don't know why it's like that. I've seen other broken in Brooks saddles that don't have this imprint.
I didn't buy it new from a store. It supposedly came off a brand new bike according to the previous owner. I believe him, cause it looked new and didn't have any "sit bone" imprint.
If this saddle starts to rip, I'll replace it with a Gyes saddle. I've read some good reviews on them.
NOTE: The outline of the imprint is from the "nose cap" (?) of the saddle chassis. I don't know why it's like that. I've seen other broken in Brooks saddles that don't have this imprint.
Monday, April 16, 2012
Rust & Flaking Paint
After riding through this mild winter, my bike has developed some rust spots. It's not a big deal. This bike was built to be used after all.
What caught me by surprise was the flaking paint on the "chain case bracket". I thought this bike was powder coated. I don't think powder coating is suppose to flake off.
Anyway, it's all good. I still think it's an awesome bike.
What caught me by surprise was the flaking paint on the "chain case bracket". I thought this bike was powder coated. I don't think powder coating is suppose to flake off.
Anyway, it's all good. I still think it's an awesome bike.
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Cyclocomputer
I always wondered how fast and far I ride so I bought generic cyclocomputer from ebay. It works well, but it's a little sluggish with it's readings because of the cold weather.
It's easy to read, has 2 big buttons, water proof, and feels solidly built. There are a few minor issues though. The instructions, and the screw used to attaches the fork sensor could be better.
This unit does what it's suppose to and it's only $5. I would recommend it for anyone looking for a basic bicycle computer.
P.S. I'm gonna change the way the wire is routed. Just too lazy to do it now.
UPDATE FEBRUARY 20, 2012: Without going nuts, the top speed I can achieve on this bike is about 20kph (12mph) on level ground.
It's easy to read, has 2 big buttons, water proof, and feels solidly built. There are a few minor issues though. The instructions, and the screw used to attaches the fork sensor could be better.
This unit does what it's suppose to and it's only $5. I would recommend it for anyone looking for a basic bicycle computer.
P.S. I'm gonna change the way the wire is routed. Just too lazy to do it now.
UPDATE FEBRUARY 20, 2012: Without going nuts, the top speed I can achieve on this bike is about 20kph (12mph) on level ground.
Wednesday, January 4, 2012
Removed The Fenders
I removed the fenders a week or two ago for no particular reason. It was just something to do on a cold winter day. haha
This won't be a permanent thing. Sooner than later I'll have to put them back on. So far, the winter in Toronto has been dry and mild enough to ride without fenders.
There are a few advantages for removing them.
This won't be a permanent thing. Sooner than later I'll have to put them back on. So far, the winter in Toronto has been dry and mild enough to ride without fenders.
- It's easier to transport in my car after removing the wheels.
- Knocked off a bit over 1 pound or 477 grams.
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