Protecting A Leather Saddle

Before I installed the leather saddle, I conditioned it first. I used a product called Sno Seal. It will waterproof the leather and keep it from drying out. Water isn't good for stretched leather under tension and load.

The instructions to apply it are pretty straight forward. I used a hair dryer to heat the leather before applying the Sno Seal. The heated leather will melt and adsorb it. I applied it on the top of the saddle and anywhere water might migrate too.

When the saddle cooled down, I gave it a quick buff. The process darkened the leather a bit but I think looks better.

Saddle Adjustment

After getting a chance to ride it a bit more, there was a slight feeling of slipping off the front of the saddle. I tilted the nose of the saddle up one notch and took it out for a test ride.  I immediately noticed the difference. Now I don't feel like sliding off any more.

This little adjustment virtually invisible to the naked eye makes such a huge difference. I should take it out for a longer ride to see what else needs adjusting.

Handlebar Adjustment

I used to have the handlebar sloping down towards me quite a bit. After riding for a couple of minutes, the heal of my palms got sore. Also, the bike wasn't stable when I was riding with one hand. Maybe it's because I'm not use to the hand position or riding style? I dunno.

With the handlebar almost level, it feels way more stable. The pressure on my palms were gone too. It's amazing what a tiny adjustment can do.

UPDATED MARCH 6, 2011:  Flipped Handlebar.

I Got It!

Roger from Cycle Solutions dropped off my bike today. The first thing I did was swap the saddle to a Brooks. Then I took it out for a quick spin around the block. After some minor adjustments, the bike rides like a big old Cadillac. I love it!

I immediately noticed the weight. This bike is heavy tipping the scales at 19+ kg. I don't mind though.  It can weigh 30kg for all I care.  It just makes the bike feel more solid. As if nothing can throw you off course. Just point your wheel where you want to go and plow though.

Something else I noticed. Even though it's a step though frame, I catch myself throwing my leg over the seat to get on the bike 99% of the time. I should put those old milk crate baskets on the rear rack stacked 3 high. I'll start stepping though for sure. ; )

Why The Kona Africa Bike?

It has a lot of features I want in a utility bicycle.

• The step though frame is very practical. 
• The rear wheel lock is convenient to have.  
• It uses 26" mountain bike wheels/tires.
• It has an internal 3 speed hub with coaster brake.  
• Integrated rear rack.
• A comfortable sit up style of riding.
• It's simple, durable, low maintenance, and it looks kewl. 

Also, for every 2 Africa Bikes sold worldwide, Kona will donate one to the Bike Town Africa program. Read about it here. The bikes will go to people who need it the most. I think their program has started to reach beyond Africa now. Over 2,500+ bikes have been donated so far.

Get a kewl bike and contributed to a great cause at the same time. This is a awesome deal. Everyone should buy one. : )

P.S. My bike is ready! I'm getting it delivered tomorrow. Woo hoo!  I'll be able to post some pictures up soon.

I Bought One!

I bought a 2010 Kona Africa Bike 3 from Cycle Solutions. I'll be picking it up later this week. I should have gotten it sooner but it got damaged during shipping. No worries though. They ordered 2 this time just in case. ; )

Roger (their online sales guy) has kept me up to date with my order. He offered me a bike to borrow till it arrives. I thought that was pretty kewl. Thanks Roger.

P.S. If you prefer steel over aluminum, you better get one soon.  The 2011 models are made of aluminum. I'm suspecting they switched to aluminum because it's lighter. This should make it cheaper to ship these bikes to Africa.